Homebuyer Tips
Buying Considerations Pricing and Negotiations Inspections and Construction

Buying Considerations

Considerations When Buying
This is probably the single most important consideration to keep in mind when buying a home. In the real estate business, it is said that three things count in establishing property value: location, location, location. Houses may be updated, renovated, and improved, but neighborhoods and communities tend to retain their basic character and market value over periods of time. Is the home in a safe neighborhood where people want to move, buy homes, and raise families? Is there access to schools, transportation, and shopping? Is the area run-down, filled with high crime, or noisy? Are people moving away to better places to live? Look for an area where homes sell quickly and easily. It's a good sign if houses stay on the market for less than three months; if it takes six months or more for homes to sell, look elsewhere. Avoid neighborhoods with a large number of undeveloped lots, abandoned homes, poorly maintained homes and yards, a large number of FOR SALE signs, or mixed zoning (commercial and residential together).

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from:
How To Buy A House, Condo, or Co-op, by Michael C. Thomsett and Consumers Union of the United States, Inc., 1996

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Location, Location, Location

Before you are very far into your house-hunting, someone will tell you the oldest real estate joke that the three most important factors in the value of a house are (1) location, (2) location and (3) location.

It's true, too. A house costing $600,000 in Beverly Hills might sell, on a comparable lot in the suburbs of Peoria, for $100,000. Never in the history of this country have locational differences been so marked. Closer to home, you know yourself that a modest home in the most expensive suburb is worth much more that the identical house in an inner city neighborhood.

From a buyer's point of view, there are two ways of looking at this locational preference, which appraisers call situs. The classic advice is to buy the modest house on a more expensive street. Such a house is easy to resell, and it's value will hold up well, for there are always buyers eager for the prestige of that particular neighborhood. Remodeling or adding to it is possible too because alterations won't push it out of the price range for that area.

On the other hand, the most luxurious house on the street won't ever repay the owner for the money invested. No matter how elegant it may be, buyers with money to spend will aim at another, fancier neighborhood.

In one way, then, an over-improved house represents an opportunity for the buyer who wants lots of space and luxury features and isn't worried about resale value. If you think you will live in the house for a long time and you like the area, you may be able to pick up a great deal for your money. Where then are the bargains?

  • Sloppy houses, otherwise well maintained
  • Family situations of stress: divorce, death, illness
  • Property over-improved for it's neighborhood
  • The modest house on a prestigious street

The last is, perhaps, not so much a bargain as it is a classic good investment.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Buy Your First Home Now, by Peter G. Miller

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Know the Neighborhood

This stage of your market research is done on the scene, driving or walking slowly through the streets. That's the only successful way to canvass a neighborhood.

What, exactly, defines "a neighborhood"? It may be a grouping of houses around a physical landmark, such as a park, marina, valley, or hill. It can be as small as one block or large enough to surround a fashionable shopping area.

When you start looking for a neighborhood, think about what you want in terms of proximity to people and goods and services. Do you want to be close enough to stores so that you can get there on foot or bicycle? Do you want a closely knit community where everybody knows everybody else, or a more impersonal place? A huge apartment house can be a neighborhood all by itself, where you nod to people in the elevators for years without ever knowing their names.

Drive around and investigate neighborhoods in the car, then get out and walk around those that really interest you. You learn a lot on foot! Ideally, you shouldn't tackle more than three neighborhoods in one day, because no matter how good an observer you are, communities will start to blend together in your mind.

If you see a "For Sale by Owner" sign as you walk, go into the house and look around. If you seen a place under renovation, stop and speak to the contractor. Or if you notice an ad about a neighborhood block association meeting or a house tour, take advantage of it. You want to educate yourself as much as possible about the community before you even begin to think of buying there. It's like marriage - you've got to know the man before you make the big decision.

What are you looking for as you scout around an area?

Are yards well landscaped? Or are they filled with weeds? Are there broken-down cars and bikes in the yard? That's a sign of sloppy homeowners and lack of community concern. .If you're looking in a city, are there vacant lots? Boarded-up stores? How long have they been that way? The neighborhood may be in a state of deterioration. .Do children play in the streets? This could be good or bad. It might be a sign of a safe community, or it could indicate that there are no playgrounds or parks available. Cul-de-sacs or dead-end streets are very desirable for kids, since they mean no speeding traffic. .Do you see older people sitting on porches as well as children outside? A sign of good balance in the population. .Are the residential neighborhoods sprinkled with commercial establishments? Many homeowners like having a corner grocer, a few boutiques, and some popular restaurants nearby. Of course, the encroachment of shopping malls or industry with large parking lots would be a different story. .How close is the nearest highway? Do you hear a lot of traffic as you walk the streets? Is it safe for kids? .How's the public transportation? Is it near enough to be convenient but distant enough not to be noisy? .Are you too close to the airport or a railroad? An all-night disco? Noise pollution could be a problem. .If you're looking in a city, are there iron bars on all the windows? This sign is self-explanatory-who wants to live in a prison?

Make yourself a list of pros and cons. No one neighborhood will be perfect, but there will be some whose faults you can overlook because their positive qualities overcome their liabilities.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: The Smart Woman's Guide To Buying And Renovating Real Estate For Profit, by Suzanne Brangham, Clarkson N. Potter, Inc., 1987.

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Homework for Homebuyers
As an added precaution, do a double-check of the services available to the property you are considering. Ask specific questions of the proper authorities and accept only specified answers.

  • Day-Care, Preschool: Where are nearby day-care and preschool facilities ? What types of programs do they offer? Will be there a place for your child? Which days and what times are available? What are the costs?
  • Public Transportation: Is a bus or some other public transportation available? Where are bus stops located? How frequent is the service? Obtain a transportation map so you can determine the routes you may be using.
  • Recreational Facilities: Will you be allowed to use recreational facilities in the area? Is your new home in a public or private recreation district? Are special memberships required? Where are parks located and what facilities do they have? Are the parks used by recreation organizations on specific days? Who takes care of part maintenance and security?
  • Hospital and Medical Services: Where is the nearest hospital? Are emergency medical facilities closer?
  • Police and Fire Protection: How available are police, fire and emergency services? Is the protection adequate? Will your home be protected by a neighborhood watch program? Does the area have access to a 911 or other emergency telephone number?
  • Television Reception: Is TV reception adequate? Is cable TV available for those who want? Are there restrictions on antennae? Can you have your own satellite dish?
  • Telephone Service: Will telephone service be available as soon as you move in? Will a private line be available? What other telephone services are available?
  • Postal Service: Will mail be delivered to the front porch, to the front curb or to community mailboxes at the end of the road? Will mail be delivered daily? Where is the nearest facility to mail packages, buy stamps, etc.?
  • Trash Collection: Is a commercial garbage collection service available. Or will you have to haul and dispose of your own trash? If dumpsters are provided, where are they located?
  • Street Maintenance and Parking: Are the roads properly maintained? Will it be your responsibility to maintain any part of the roads? What are the parking restrictions, weekdays, weekends and in emergencies? Can you park directly in front of your home?
  • Water and Sewer: Are water and sewer facilities adequate? Are there water restrictions?
  • Property Taxes: What are the property taxes now and what are they expected to be? Is a general tax increase expected?
  • Special Assessments: Are special assessments anticipated? These could be made for any number of reasons - paving projects, water and/or sewer improvements, drainage improvements, schools, parks, sidewalks. Are you expected to pay for special assessments approved or anticipated?
  • Zoning Changes and New Construction: Have there been any recent zoning changes? Are zoning changes anticipated? Is new construction planned that will change the appearance of or the traffic flow through the neighborhood?

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: How to Buy Your Home and Do It Right, by Susan E. Beck, Dearborn Financial Publishing, Inc., 1993

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Condos vs. Houses

  • Price. Some people love the idea of condo ownership, and others hate it. Some who are not at all that thrilled with the idea may opt for it for one simple reason - in many places it's a lot cheaper than a single-family detached home. This will be a difficult fact for you to accept if the only condos you are familiar with are developments with names like Country Club Haven and Rockefeller Manor and have Jags and BMWs parked in front of them. Statistically, however, it's true. In some markets the average sales price of a condo will be 40 to 50 percent less than the single-family detached option.
  • Variety. Remember that the word condominium describes a form of ownership, not a type of building. Although the apartment-style condo is common, there are an infinite variety. They range from a very modest apartment building that has been converted to lavish single-level units built specifically as condos and clustered around a golf course.
  • Quality of Construction. Several years ago, as the condo concept became more accepted by homebuyers, a conversion feeding frenzy occurred. Let's say you owned an apartment building that with intensive management was barely returning a positive cash flow for you. An astute developer shows you how to convert the apartments to condos and sell them. The profit figures he projects take your breath away. You're convinced and you convert. So did a lot of other apartment house owners.
  • Consumer abuses occurred during the period, prompting many state legislatures to enact very restrictive rules on condo conversions. One of the biggest complaints had to do with quality of construction. "Paper-thin walls" was a complaint often heard. A tenant who pays $700 a month for an apartment might be slightly annoyed by the presence of a noisy neighbor. A purchaser who pays $100,000 for that apartment as a condo would likely be more than somewhat irritated by that same inconsiderate neighbor.
  • New construction, built specifically as condos, naturally gets much better marks. For example, when we moved to our present location, a local builder was just in the early stages of constructing a condominium project. We purchased a condo for a relative when it was in the foundation stage. Each individual unit had its own interior walls, separated by an airspace as opposed to a common wall. It was clear in all the planning and actual construction that these units were designed as homes, not as apartments. Since it was early in the construction process, my wife and mother-in-law could work with the builder to customize the condo. It turned out well for us, and the builder maintains that the nervous twitch he developed had nothing to do with the experience.
  • Condominium Owners' Association: This is an association of elected condo owners who control and manage the overall affairs of the condo complex, including maintenance of the common areas, such as the required periodic painting of the exterior as well as such exotic functions as garbage pickup. Those things obviously cost money, and they seem to cost more money each year. You will be required to pay monthly dues to cover these expenses. By the way, if you buy a condo, the amount of these fees will be considered by the lender when qualifying you for the loan. Condo associations have some rather formidable power. For example, miss one of those dues payments and they can put you a lien on your property - and in a worst-case situation, actually foreclose on it.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: The Homebuyer's Survival Guide, by Kenneth W. Edwards, Real Estate Education Company, 1994.

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The Older Home
If you want a house with character - perhaps even a history of its own - consider an older home. Middle-aged houses often reflect the love and care that have been lavished on them through such owner-added touches as crown moldings, carved fireplace mantels and built-in bookcases. Often older homes are also found in neighborhoods that present a more varied environment using a broader range of architectural styles, as well as a range of colors and texture of materials. Mature trees, established lawns and years of gardening often add much to the feel of a community.

With older homes, however, come older floor plans that may not fit into today's lifestyles. Traffic flow may not be convenient, master bedrooms may be small, closets almost nonexistent, and kitchens and baths outdated. If you think remodeling costs will make the house the most expensive home in the neighborhood, keep looking or you may lose money in he long run. Your repair bills will most likely be higher at least in the beginning years of ownership. And remember that old homes are unpredictable - you never know when the roof, furnace or water heater will need replacing.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Kiplinger's Buying & Selling A Home, by The Staff of Kiplinger's Personal Finance Magazine, Kiplinger Books, 1996.

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Become a House Detective
Do you live in an old house and want to unearth a bit of its history?

If you live in an older house and are not familiar with its heritage you might want to consider becoming a house detective, so to speak. It's fun and educational to find out about the history of your property. In my college real estate classes, students are required to select a property, preferably one they have some interest in, and research its ownership back to 1900. They tell me it's the best assignment of the course.

Here are some places you can go for information:

First, go to the county courthouse and check the property records. There will be deeds filed by names of owners, plus there will be tax records. It will help tremendously if you have the legal description and tax number of the property you are investigating.

Other sources of information include your local historic preservation program, if there is one in your town. Also, the state archives has tax rolls and birth and death records. Census records are available at regional National Archives centers and some libraries. And don't forget local libraries that might have city directories, newspapers ,and magazines.

Good hunting.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: TWO HOURS OF REAL ESTATE, One Minute at a Time, by Phil Hardwick, Quail Ridge Press, 1993.

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Storage Considerations
Do you have property which you want to keep but which you are unwilling or unable to take with you? Consider storing it. For example, if you are moving to a smaller home but don't want to sell furniture which will not fit, you can put it in storage. Large tools and work benches can be stored if there is no workspace in your new home. Air conditioners and other appliances which are incompatible with your new home as well as clothes which are inappropriate for your new climate can also be put away for your return.

Inspect the storage facility carefully. Ask such questions as: Is it clean? Are there palates for raising stored items off the floor? Are the rugs rolled or folded and is the rolling or folding done by you or the facility? Are rugs also stored off the floor? Is there evidence of any water damage? Are there sprinklers, fire alarms, and security devices?

Find out if insurance is available through the storage facility or if you will need to get it from your insurance agent.
Clean your property and make any necessary repairs before you store it.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Moving: A Complete Checklist and Guide by Karen G. Adams, Silvercat Publications, San Diego, 1994

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Notify Your Friends of Your Move
If you have children, take pictures of their friends and start a scrapbook. Collect addresses and phone numbers so your kids can keep in touch at holidays and other times.

Have your friends pick up any items you are giving away. These should all be out of the way before you begin packing in earnest.

Collect any items which you have loaned to neighbors or friends. Return those which you have borrowed. Pick up items on lay away, anything being repaired or dry cleaned, film being developed, and any other similar articles.
Donate other things to charity. Get a receipt for tax purposes.
Start saying farewell to friends and neighbors. Making just a few calls a day will give your more time as moving day approaches for last minute things.

Give your new address and phone number in writing to your friends when you see them.
Continue using up your coupons (movie theaters, free passes, green stamps, pool passes, etc.) Give the rest away.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Moving... A Complete Checklist and Guide for Relocation by Karen G. Adams, Silvercat Publications, 1994

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Pricing And Negotiations

Getting the Price Down
It is rare, particularly when dealing with older houses in need of renovation, that a seller expects to receive the asking price of the house. It is up to you, the buyer, to pay as little as will possibly be accepted. Here are some suggestions for your negotiating strategy:
• Exercise the most extreme politeness, even if you don't trust those you are dealing with.
• Gently but firmly mention the flaws you have found and how much they are apt to cost you to fix.
• Let it be known that you are looking at other houses as well as this one.
• Make an offer twice as low as you expect to pay: the seller will surely not accept your offer, but will make a counter offer.
• Ask the owner to include certain repairs as part of the deal.
• Ask the owner to include in the deal certain items, such as

o Furniture
o Tools
o Appliances
o Restoration Materials

• Ask the owner to pay your closing costs or give you the time remaining on the insurance policy to reduce your start up costs.
• Explore the idea of the seller's giving you a second mortgage at a lower rate than the bank is giving you on the first mortgage; if the seller is planning on investing the profit from the sale, the interest you are willing to pay him or her may be more than bank or other investment interest will yield.

Watch out for sharpies who just want to make a lot of money on a house that is worth a little.

To get you through the legal technicalities, hire a real estate lawyer at an hourly rate. You may find you actually save legal costs incurred in broker-handled closings. Make sure your lawyer protects your interests adequately.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Reviving Old Houses by Alan Dan Orme, Garden Way Publishing, 1989.

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Encounters With Owners
You will probably meet the owners on one of your visits. As all of you stand around feeling awkward, watch carefully for non-verbal communication among home owning family members. Did Daughter blush when Dad said the tap water was fit to drink? The owners may offer coffee or a soda, but watch out if you're offered alcoholic beverages. They could be trying to blunt your powers of observation and resolve. Beer, wine and sherry, of course, do not count as alcoholic beverages.

Be as charming as you can when you meet the owners. Remember, your goal is to make them divulge the worst secrets of the house and then let you have it for a fraction of what it's worth just because they like you so much. Failing this, you want to undermine their confidence in the value of their home. Do this by pointing out obscure problems in the form of compliments.

Example: " I love the way you've handled the space in the living room. It makes the room look so much
bigger than it really is."

Caveat: Never suggest that anything is wrong with the taste of the owners, even if there are acrylic fur seat covers on all the toilets and a portrait of Elvis over the hearth with eyes that follow you around the room.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: The House Trap, by Alfred Gingold, Workman Publishing, 1988.

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Buyer's / Seller's Market
Depending on the economy, you may find yourself in a buyer's market in which the buyers get the best deals, or you may find yourself in a seller's market in which the sellers get the upper hand. Sometimes, you'll find yourself somewhere in between.

In a buyer's market, there are a lot of homes on the market, and they may take a while to sell. To sell a house, the seller might need to offer a really good price, plus additional incentives such as help with financing. If you're buying a home in this type of market, you can take your time looking and can usually strike a pretty good deal.

In a seller's market, houses aren't on the market for long. In fact, they may sell before they are even listed. Because the market is so strong, many owners will decide to sell their homes themselves; you'll see a lot of for-sale-by-owner (FSBO) homes. If you're selling a house in this market, you're lucky. You'll probably get many good offers and not need to offer any additional incentives. If you're buying a house in this market, you may have to work hard to find a house that you like and can make an offer on before it is sold...To get your offer accepted, you should be financially ready (prequalified). Also, don't expect to submit and have accepted a contract with a lot of contingencies.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: The Complete Idiot's Guide to Buying and Selling A Home, by Shelley O'Hara, Alpha Books, 1996.

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More Than Asking Price
Dear Edith: After looking at a house a second time, I told my agent I would like to make an offer on it the next day. That evening my agent said the listing agent had told her that there was another "very good" offer being prepared. My agent suggested I write a contract immediately before the other one could be presented.

Instead of trying to offer the price and terms I wanted, I was convinced that in order to have my offer accepted, I should offer $500 over the asking price. This was accepted by the sellers.

What are the chances that either agent duped me? - E.K.N.

Slim.

It really is sometimes advisable to make an offer for more than the asking price, particularly when property is newly listed at a no-nonsense figure.

Of course I can't know whether any particular person is honest, but consider this: by the time the commission was divided among listing office, listing agent, selling office and selling agent, "your" agent probably stood to make about $7 if you paid $500 more. Hardly seems worth lying about.

Neither one was your agent, by the way, unless you had specifically hired a buyer's broker. Both were working for the seller. Both agents had special legal obligations to the seller, including obtaining the best price for the house. They were also, however, required by law to deal honestly with buyers.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Dear Edith...On Real Estate, by Edith Lank, Longman Financial Services Publishing, 1990.

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Seller's Price Justifications
The "hard" evidence that sellers can use like weapons to defend their asking price sometimes overwhelms and intimidates buyers. Be prepared to let seller's defenses roll off your back without compromising your position. Willingly, sellers will bring out appraisals, market-value estimates by real estate agents, computer printouts of homes sold in the neighborhood, and cost receipts of improvements that have been made.
Be prepared to attack as follows:
An Appraisal: No matter how expert the appraiser, he or she can't put a price on your home. No one can ever understand all the factors that are important to you. An appraiser judges what's important to him or her.
Market-Value Estimate by a Real Estate Agent: Giving free market evaluations is the way real estate agents get business. It's a device to butter up sellers and entice the sellers to "come list with me." As such, agents wanting the listing so badly sometimes give maximum, often outrageously high, market-value prices.
Computer Printouts of Homes Sold in the Neighborhood: Interesting. Worth looking over. Usually these lists are limited to homes sold by real estate companies, not by owners. Sometimes homes on the list are carefully selected to justify a higher price. Check with a buyer's broker for the true story.
Cost Receipts of Improvements Made: Again, interesting. But not necessarily suited to your needs. I know buyers who paid more for a home without the extra finished room. They didn't want to have to keep up the extra space.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Buying More House for Less Money,By Cecil Lohmar, Probus Publishing Company, 1990

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Escape Clauses
If you feel less than certain that you will be able to go through with the purchase for any reason, you can - and should - go one step further. Insist on adding an 'escape clause' to your offer. This allows you to back out of an agreement without incurring any penalty or disadvantage. This clause should be already in the 'Offer and Acceptance' form supplied by your attorney or buyer's broker. If it isn't, ask him how to add it.

Such a clause might state that you will go through with the deal, but only if certain other things happen. For example, you'll complete the purchase provided your partner or mortgage lender or attorney approves it. Remember, this offer document is not the full Sales and Purchase Agreement. That will be drawn up later by your attorney or broker (or approved by him) if your offer is accepted. And, it will spell out in detail the conditions attaching to the purchase.

The escape clause (often called a 'contingency' or 'contingency clause') in the Offer and Acceptance document serves only one purpose, to allow you the right to withdraw without any cost or further obligation to you. This is a matter you should cover in your preliminary talk with your attorney or buyer's broker. At the same time, seek advice on how to go about putting a deposit on the home you select. And keep in mind that an offer to purchase can be withdrawn at any time prior to acceptance, with or without an escape clause .

When it comes to handing over money, my own approach is one of caution. Even when protected by an escape clause, I believe it's wise to give the agent the smallest possible deposit (sometimes called an earnest money deposit' or a 'good faith' deposit). This is the money the agent looks for before he submits your offer. If you decide later to pull out of a deal, a properly worded contingency clause can guarantee you will get your money back. Without such a clause, you could forfeit your entire deposit.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Not One Dollar More!, by Joseph Eamon Cummins, Kells Media Group, 1995.

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Buyer's Mistake Number 79
" We Fell in love with the house and just HAD to have it."
Lesson: Keep your love to yourself. Put your options on the table.

In his best-selling book You Can Get Anything You Want , Roger Dawson, the world-renowned negotiating expert, tells how a negotiation slipup cost him $30,000 when he was buying his family's present home. Roger writes that one day while teaching his daughter to drive in the secluded hills of Southern California, he spotted the house of his dreams. Everything about the house was perfect, he says, and it was for sale.

Posing as a reluctant, if not altogether indifferent, buyer, Roger relates how he plotted his negotiation strategy - only to see it evaporate when his wife and daughter returned to look at the house without him. They oohed and aahed over every feature, and by the time they were through with their tour, "they had demolished my reluctant buyers plan," says Roger.

It also didn't help matters when his wife told the sellers Roger really thought their house was wonderful. At that point the sellers knew the Dawsons were hooked. With a ticket price of $15, Roger says many people think a tour of Hearst Castle at San Simeon is expensive. But he calculated that one house tour by his wife and daughter cost him $30,000.00.

When talking with sellers, you've got to walk a fine line. Yes, you want to show interest, develop a cooperative, problem-solving attitude, and prevent critical remarks that may offend. Yet you can't go overboard with lavish praise. Nor do you want to tell yourself, "This is the perfect house, we've simply got to have it."

In other words, don't shut out other options - either in your own mind or in the eyes of the sellers. When the sellers believe you've eliminated other houses from consideration, they'll naturally use that information to bolster their own position. Should you tell yourself, "Nothing else will do," you abandon the strongest negotiating power any buyer has - the willpower to walk away from the deal. Sometimes emotions do get the better of us. But keep in mind that once you relinquish your walk away willpower, you might as well hand the sellers a blank contract and let them fill in the numbers.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: The 106 Common Mistakes Homebuyers Make, by Gary Eldred, Ph.D., John Wiley Sons, Inc., 1994

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Inspection and Construction Considerations

Home Inspecation
Frequently Asked Questions


The real estate sales market has toned down dramatically since the 80’s, yet now in the late 90s there are clear signs of renewed home buyer activity and care in the purchase of homes. Home inspectors have reported a significant increase in the number of pre-purchase inspections, according to the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), the most respected national organization of independent home inspectors.

What are the most common house problems buyers can expect to find?
In homes 20 years and older, ASHI experts say that roof shingles, electrical wiring, and surface water drainage systems are the items most commonly cited on inspection reports as needing repair or modification.
In new construction, inspectors frequently find water seepage into basement/cellar or crawl space, inadequate attic ventilation, poor roof construction, and substandard masonry and finish work.

Are there any environmental hazards present in the home?

In response to a growing awareness of the dangers posed by certain substances, such as radon gas, asbestos fiber, and urea formaldehyde foam insulation, many consumers are paying extra to have special tests performed to make sure their new home doesn’t pose a health hazard to them and their family. Although a standard ASHI home inspection does not include environmental items, many home inspectors offer environmental assessment as an optional service, or recommend further evaluation.

What is the difference between a home inspection and an engineering inspection? Which is appropriate for the home buyer?
Considerable confusion surrounds this question, particularly since in some areas, home inspections have been inadvertently referred to as engineering inspections or evaluations, and engineers sometimes perform home inspections. But the two, according to home inspection and engineering authorities, are actually quite different. Engineering evaluations are usually specialized by discipline (such as chemical, structural, electrical) and involve exhaustive scientific measurements and calculations for confirming the design of the systems. Home inspections, on the other hand, tell buyers what they really need to know: “what is the condition of the home today?”. The home inspection, performed by a professional engineer (P.E.) or a non-engineer professional inspector does not involve engineering analysis of the original design, but deals instead with the in-service operation or failure of a home’s systems and components, as well as the type of maintenance that has been and should be performed. It is based on established criteria of performance and training specific to the home inspection profession.

How does one know who is qualified to conduct home inspections?

State agencies, which are typically responsible for regulating professional activity, have not undertaken to license home inspectors, except in Texas. Home buyers must therefore carefully review an inspector’s background and credentials to determine if he has the appropriate training and professional ethics to perform home inspections.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Banker & Tradesman, May 1997

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Inspections: Boefore or After?
Which is better: to have the home inspected before you make an offer, or after? Most commonly, you will order an inspection after you know that your offer is acceptable to the seller. If the price you are prepared to pay seems to have no chance of buying the home, paying for an inspection ($250 - 350) is a waste of money. That’s the conventional thinking and it usually is sound.

However, homebuying is a flexible undertaking and much is dictated by the particular circumstance in which you find yourself. It isn’t always best to leave your professional home inspection until your offer has been accepted . You could have this carried out between offers, while the negotiation is still in progress. Perhaps before you make your second, third, or final offer when it can be the catalyst in making the deal. Naturally, any offer you make before the inspection will carry a contingency clause stating that you will go through with the deal only if the results are satisfactory to you.

A later inspection can sometimes give you even greater advantage than an early one. Let’s say you have reached agreement with the seller. You have negotiated well and have won a good reduction in the selling price. The seller’s anticipation is heightened. He sees the deal as a done thing. He is glad the whole process is over. Then, if the inspection reveals problems, it is much harder for him to back out. He is far more likely to agree to a lower sale price or, at least, pay for the repairs or replacements that are needed.

If you are a first time buyer or new to negotiating, it is probably better to negotiate a price first. Then, have an inspection carried out and try to get the seller to pay for any work you consider necessary or to agree to a lower price.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Not One Dollar More!, by Joseph Eamon Cummins, Kells Media Group, 1995.

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Condo Quality - A Major Concern
The quality of any property you are considering should be a major concern, but the quality of construction of a condominium complex is especially important. There are several reasons for this. First, of course, is your health and safety. Also, as a homeowner, you will be responsible for the costs of repairs. Even if there are many homeowners, the cost to each may be substantial. The cost of the hazard insurance carrier by the association is based upon the construction quality of the building. Another important consideration has to do with future financing. Lenders can pick and choose those properties on which they wish to make loans. If the condominium complex is anything but a prime property, it may be very difficult, perhaps impossible, for a buyer to get a new institutional loan when it’s time for you to sell. This may hurt your attempts to sell your home for the greatest profit.

Because most people do not understand the construction of large buildings, they choose to be unconcerned with quality. Do a careful inspection of the entire complex before writing an offer an a condominium.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: How To Buy Your Home and do it right by Sue Beck, Dearborn Financial Publishing, Inc., 1993.

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Home Warranties
Guarantees, promises, and protections provided by one party to another. In real estate contracts, there are usually warranties regarding the condition of the appliances and certain fixtures. New homes often have extensive warranties covering not only fixtures and appliances, but the overall structure of the house as well. There can be “express” (written) warranties, ”implied” warranties (guarantees that the parties intended even though they may have stated them specifically in the contracts), and “imposed” warranties (guarantees created, for example, by state law).

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Successful Real Estate Negotiation by Peter G. Miller, Harper Perennial, 1994

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Sales Models - Use Caution!
Here's an interesting trivia question: What's the number one reason buyers of new homes cite for not recommending their builder?

If you said the quality of the home, guess again. Sixty-eight percent of new buyers said the humiliating sales process of their builder soured them on the whole experience, according to a Minnesota marketing research firm. And who can blame them? Whether you're in Maine or Oregon, walk into any new home community and the sales pitch is frighteningly similar. Even Builder Magazine, the official mouthpiece of the National Association of Home Builders, recognized this problem in a recent article and described the typical sales process like this:

"The hostess or sales associate greets the customer at the sales office door. Then, like it or not, the prospects are led to the topo table (the office's centerpiece) to get a bird's-eye view of the community, hear a spiel on the project's benefits and (to instill the first twinges of urgency) see all the little red "sold" dots. Next, the buyers are delicately grilled ('prequalified') about their housing needs and pocket depth, then steered to the wall-mounted floor plan the sales staffer judges they'd like best. Then the prospects are released (or if it's a slow day, accompanied) to the models."

"Back from the models (assuming they didn't climb over the model trap's fence), the prospects are intercepted, steered to the wall-mounted 'builders' story for another canned spiel, then directed (or accompanied) to a lot. Finally, the sales associate eases the prospects into a cramped closing room to 'work up some numbers'- and to extract a 'be-back' promise or contract."

Sound familiar? The only thing missing is a soundtrack blaring out Janet Jackson's "Control." (I want to be the one... in control!) That's what it's all about, after all-manipulating you both physically (why do you think the models with the fence attached is called a "model trap"?) and psychologically. Builders are control freaks, who think the only way to weed out tire-kickers is to treat all buyers like a side of beef that's waiting to be processed.

There are some ways you can take control of the sales process as a buyer. Here are some tips:

•Do your homework before you step into a model. Don't rely on the canned "builder's story." Instead research the builder at the local library- all public builders will leave a trail of newspaper articles, both good and bad.

• Ask for the price lists and brochures up-front. Instead of being led by the nose through the builder's model, insist on seeing these documents first. That way you can tell if you're truly interested or merely wasting both your and the builder's time.

•Shop around. Not all builders are blind to this problem- some actually have tried to make the sales process easier to swallow. For example, at willow lake in North Aurora, IL, United Development has life-sized plans on waterproof tarps- buyers can walk through the plans to get an idea of different layouts or to merely figure out how large that closet really is. Other builders are making their models more interactive, with freestanding displays of plumbing, windows, and other details. By revealing what's going on behind the walls, you can get a better read on the builder's quality.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: Your New House,by Alan & Denise Fields,Windsor Press, 1996

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Up On The Roof
The roof is the advance guard of the house. It engages the elements first and provides the most fundamental protection from them. As such it is always a source of anxiety and concern. If it's old, you wonder when you'll have to replace it. If it's new, you wonder when you'll have to repair it.

Every roof needs adequate runoff. You can't just let the water that is ready to fall off your roof go straight over the sides. First of all, the random dripping would keep you up and drive you crazy. Then all the water would end up in your basement, or flooding the area around your crawl space or foundation. To ensure proper runoff, all roofs must have gutters that drain the water to leaders.

Check the southern exposure of the roof. This side gets the worst beating from the sun's rays because of the rising and setting of the sun in the south. (Well, actually it rises in the east and sets in the west, but you'd never know it to look at the southern exposure of your roof.)

Trying to decide which way is south will probably keep you too preoccupied to ask what the roof is made of and whether or not it keeps the weather out (should you buy, you'll find out when it rains). The most common roofing materials are:
Slate: Unbelievably expensive, breaks easily, requires specially trained, dying breed of craftsfolk to repair or replace.
Asphalt Shingle: Smells funny when wet, cracks in cold, retains heat in summer.
Wood: Leaks, smells, rots. Metal: Bends, rusts, corrodes.

If price is no object, you might consider a thatched roof, certainly the cutest roof of all, especially if you don't mind living under a fire hazard teeming with mice and spiders. From a distance, a house with a thatched roof looks like Don King.

This Homebuyers Tip was excerpted from: The House Trap, by Alfred Gingold, Workman Publishing, 1988.

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